- by Macrae Schaffler
The Italian vegetable pizza and Cove panini. Photos by Macrae Schaffler.
Walking into the Cove, one feels as though it is a bar that has always been there. In reality, the bar just opened a few months ago. The décor is super-retro dive bar, with a nautical motif that has been adopted from the old Anderton’s on Madison. Creator Jim Marshall, a local interior designer, bought out the whole of Anderton’s décor, from the murals that used to be on the walls at the beloved Midtown eatery all the way to the bar itself, which turned out to be a perfect fit for the space on Broad Street
The Cove occupies what used to be the Beer Joint, a seedy, dark, biker bar that seemed to squat in the now up and coming neighborhood near Broad and Hollywood. Although slow, the revitalization of this neighborhood is very apparent. Art galleries are popping up in the area, and buildings are undergoing renovation. The old Broadway pizza is still next door, but the rest of the neighborhood continues to change.
The Cove has already established itself a loyal crowd, as each time I have visited, the place has been quite busy. The menu, although incidental to the cocktails, is better than the pub grub you would expect from such a place. The oysters are big and plump and flavorful, and they are shucked by Chuck Wilson, formerly of Anderton’s! On my most recent visit, I enjoyed the Midtowner panini, a vegetarian sandwich on grilled bread with plenty of goat cheese, roasted red peppers, and sautéed eggplant. The panini also comes with a yummy little salad, an unexpected lemony, garlicky delight for a meal at a bar, and the Cove is first and foremost a bar, after all.
The Cove Special is also a good panini, loaded with Italian meats and chunky olive tapenade. The pizzas are good - Broadway Pizza style, with loads of toppings and a super-thin crust. My husband prefers the pepperoni, but I also like the Italian vegetable. Munchies on the menu include Syrian hummus, mixed olives, marcona almonds, and toasted pecans - much more pleasing than the usual breaded and fried options one expects to find at a neighborhood bar.
To finish off your meal, the Cove also offers two delicious desserts: tiramisu (who doesn’t love tiramisu?) and the chocolate coconut. The chocolate coconut is a half coconut shell filled with coconut ice cream and topped with hot fudge sauce and macadamia nuts. Think almond joy, but better. I highly recommend this dessert.
The main event at The Cove is the cocktail menu. Marshall has a true passion for cocktails, and not your run of the mill Beale Street fruit punchy knock-you-on-your-knees cocktails, either. Marshall has devised a list of cocktails to rival any neighborhood bar in the Big Easy. With drink offerings like sazerac, the Cove martini, the vampire, the sidecar, the manhattan, and a real margarita with fresh-squeezed lime juice, the Cove’s cocktails are definitely the star of the show. Cocktails are served in traditional hi-ball glasses and are not over ice, but don’t worry, they are plenty cold.
The Cove
2559 Broad
(901) 730-0719
Hours: 5PM-3AM, seven days
Rating: 3.5/5 spoons
Ambience: 4/5 spoons
Food: 3/5 spoons
Service: 3/5 spoons
Macrae Schaffler writes the food blog Edible Therapy.
- by Macrae Schaffler
The carne asada tostado (above) and the carne asade torta. Photos by Macrae Schaffler.
Maya’s is a new Mexican dive in the Berclair area of Memphis. It has been open for the past three weeks, and who can resist another new Mexican restaurant? Maya’s is an unassuming little spot in a strip mall at the corner of Macon and Waring, right where Waring turns to Wells Station Road. The interior is decorated with murals of Mayan ruins. The restaurant serves beer, but we did not see any sign of margaritas (yet)
When we visited Maya’s for the first time, we were the only people in the restaurant speaking English, with the exception of our waitress. I always feel that the first sign of a good ethnic restaurant is a good crowd of those native to the land from whence the food comes, so I was reassured as soon as we walked through the doors.
We ordered an embarassingly large quantity of food when we visited Maya’s, starting with guacamole and the complimentary chips and salsa. We then sampled a carne asada taco, a chicken huaracha, a carne asada torta, a carne asada tostada, and a chile relleno. If that sounds like a lot of carne asada, it is. We actually ordered spicy pork on the torta, but it came out with carne asada. Our waitress graciously offered to return it for the requested pork, but we declined, as we were hungry and we both love carne asada. I guess we will have to return soon to try the spicy pork!
The chips and salsa were delicious, though actually we were served two salsas – an extremely spicy roasted tomatillo salsa that my husband happily devoured but was too hot for me, and the more familiar tomato salsa that was just right. I strongly approve of salsa in which I can see the ingredients as well as taste them, and the tomatoes, green onion, cilantro and black pepper were a nice, warm way to start the meal. The guacamole was delicious; it tasted of fresh avocados and green onions, and was completely lacking in that bitter, mealy taste that comes from vacuum-packed guacamole.
The torta came next. It was a very satisfying combination of carne asada (seasoned grilled chopped beef), lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and avocado on a large soft grilled bun. The carne asada at Maya’s is very nice; it is not over-seasoned, but just tastes of grilled beef and salt and pepper. Next came the huaracha, the tostada and the taco. The huaracha was a quarter-inch thick grilled corn tortilla topped with refried beans, stewed chicken, cheese, lettuce, tomato and sour cream. The tostada was similar to the huaracha, except that it was served on a crunchy thin corn tortilla.
The asada taco was delicious - a traditional Mexican taco with two small soft corn tortillas, a little pile of carne asada topped with chopped cilantro, served with a lime wedge. The chile relleno was as expected - a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with cheese, battered and lightly fried, then topped with a light tomato sauce and a not-so-light layer of melted cheese. It was good, and I could actually taste the roasted pepper, not just the cheese. The relleno was served with rice and beans, which were as one would expect from any Mexican restaurant in town, as well as a hot foil-covered bundle of tortillas.
Next time we visit, I am looking forward to trying the fajitas, as that is what most of the patrons there during our meal were having. Maya’s also serves several breakfast items, as well as some seafood dishes. The platters at Maya’s are served with rice and beans. The tostadas, tortas and huarachas can be served with your choice of carne asada, tripe, chicken, spicy pork or tongue.
The meal at Maya’s was as good as any Mexican I have had in Memphis, and much better than the most popular spots in town - at least, more authentic. The service we received was good. We were never without full glasses, and we did not have to wait long for anything, despite the fact that the kitchen was short one man when we visited. Maya’s does not yet take credit cards, so bring your cash with you when you go.
Fuego Maya’s
4308 Macon Road
763-3893
M - Th 10 AM - 10 PM
Fri - Sun 7 AM - midnight
Rating: 3/5 spoons
Ambience: 2/5 spoons
Service: 3/5 spoons
Food: 3.5/5 spoons
Macrae Schaffler writes the food blog Edible Therapy.
