Culture Grits : A Mouthful of Memphis : Food

FOOD

Maya’s

- by Macrae Schaffler

The carne asada tostado (above) and the carne asade torta. Photos by Macrae Schaffler.

The carne asada tostado (above) and the carne asade torta. Photos by Macrae Schaffler.

Maya’s is a new Mexican dive in the Berclair area of Memphis. It has been open for the past three weeks, and who can resist another new Mexican restaurant? Maya’s is an unassuming little spot in a strip mall at the corner of Macon and Waring, right where Waring turns to Wells Station Road. The interior is decorated with murals of Mayan ruins. The restaurant serves beer, but we did not see any sign of margaritas (yet)

When we visited Maya’s for the first time, we were the only people in the restaurant speaking English, with the exception of our waitress. I always feel that the first sign of a good ethnic restaurant is a good crowd of those native to the land from whence the food comes, so I was reassured as soon as we walked through the doors.

We ordered an embarassingly large quantity of food when we visited Maya’s, starting with guacamole and the complimentary chips and salsa. We then sampled a carne asada taco, a chicken huaracha, a carne asada torta, a carne asada tostada, and a chile relleno. If that sounds like a lot of carne asada, it is. We actually ordered spicy pork on the torta, but it came out with carne asada. Our waitress graciously offered to return it for the requested pork, but we declined, as we were hungry and we both love carne asada. I guess we will have to return soon to try the spicy pork!

The chips and salsa were delicious, though actually we were served two salsas – an extremely spicy roasted tomatillo salsa that my husband happily devoured but was too hot for me, and the more familiar tomato salsa that was just right. I strongly approve of salsa in which I can see the ingredients as well as taste them, and the tomatoes, green onion, cilantro and black pepper were a nice, warm way to start the meal. The guacamole was delicious; it tasted of fresh avocados and green onions, and was completely lacking in that bitter, mealy taste that comes from vacuum-packed guacamole.

The torta came next. It was a very satisfying combination of carne asada (seasoned grilled chopped beef), lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and avocado on a large soft grilled bun. The carne asada at Maya’s is very nice; it is not over-seasoned, but just tastes of grilled beef and salt and pepper. Next came the huaracha, the tostada and the taco. The huaracha was a quarter-inch thick grilled corn tortilla topped with refried beans, stewed chicken, cheese, lettuce, tomato and sour cream. The tostada was similar to the huaracha, except that it was served on a crunchy thin corn tortilla.

The asada taco was delicious - a traditional Mexican taco with two small soft corn tortillas, a little pile of carne asada topped with chopped cilantro, served with a lime wedge. The chile relleno was as expected - a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with cheese, battered and lightly fried, then topped with a light tomato sauce and a not-so-light layer of melted cheese. It was good, and I could actually taste the roasted pepper, not just the cheese. The relleno was served with rice and beans, which were as one would expect from any Mexican restaurant in town, as well as a hot foil-covered bundle of tortillas.

Next time we visit, I am looking forward to trying the fajitas, as that is what most of the patrons there during our meal were having. Maya’s also serves several breakfast items, as well as some seafood dishes. The platters at Maya’s are served with rice and beans. The tostadas, tortas and huarachas can be served with your choice of carne asada, tripe, chicken, spicy pork or tongue.

The meal at Maya’s was as good as any Mexican I have had in Memphis, and much better than the most popular spots in town - at least, more authentic. The service we received was good. We were never without full glasses, and we did not have to wait long for anything, despite the fact that the kitchen was short one man when we visited. Maya’s does not yet take credit cards, so bring your cash with you when you go.

Fuego Maya’s
4308 Macon Road
763-3893
M - Th 10 AM - 10 PM
Fri - Sun 7 AM - midnight

Rating: 3/5 spoons
Ambience: 2/5 spoons
Service: 3/5 spoons
Food: 3.5/5 spoons

Macrae Schaffler writes the food blog Edible Therapy.

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