The Cove
- by Macrae Schaffler, Friday, February 29th, 2008
The Italian vegetable pizza and Cove panini. Photos by Macrae Schaffler.
Walking into the Cove, one feels as though it is a bar that has always been there. In reality, the bar just opened a few months ago. The décor is super-retro dive bar, with a nautical motif that has been adopted from the old Anderton’s on Madison. Creator Jim Marshall, a local interior designer, bought out the whole of Anderton’s décor, from the murals that used to be on the walls at the beloved Midtown eatery all the way to the bar itself, which turned out to be a perfect fit for the space on Broad Street
The Cove occupies what used to be the Beer Joint, a seedy, dark, biker bar that seemed to squat in the now up and coming neighborhood near Broad and Hollywood. Although slow, the revitalization of this neighborhood is very apparent. Art galleries are popping up in the area, and buildings are undergoing renovation. The old Broadway pizza is still next door, but the rest of the neighborhood continues to change.
The Cove has already established itself a loyal crowd, as each time I have visited, the place has been quite busy. The menu, although incidental to the cocktails, is better than the pub grub you would expect from such a place. The oysters are big and plump and flavorful, and they are shucked by Chuck Wilson, formerly of Anderton’s! On my most recent visit, I enjoyed the Midtowner panini, a vegetarian sandwich on grilled bread with plenty of goat cheese, roasted red peppers, and sautéed eggplant. The panini also comes with a yummy little salad, an unexpected lemony, garlicky delight for a meal at a bar, and the Cove is first and foremost a bar, after all.